Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
